Catastrophe To Us And My struggle Begins
Time is going smooth but a great shock to our family, since when I am 12, my elder brother died. This shocking news made us so much trouble in family as well as economic crisis to us and the only income from father have to survive all the members of family. This situation made us harsh in life and my elder sister worked too as porter having Yaks and Jyopkyok (Hybrid Of Yak), because of poverty and the traditional thinking of girls not going school made my sisters lacking education. This poverty lade off me from my schooling and I have to struggle my own for family since sister also got married. We have cattle so we need to migrate in season wise in summer and winter to a place named ‘Phunki Thanga’, 2hours of walk from my village and that place is still holding so many memorable moments of my childhood. Still the walk from there took long way, I use to stay with my younger brothers at Khumjung. Now I need to support my family since only one sister is to look after the family.

Quitting School and Started Climbing
I quit my schooling from class six and use to follow my sister as cow boy for the yak. It was the 1989, for the first time I got an opportunity to go ‘Mera Peak’ (6643m) with Japanese Team and for first step of my life as a climber I made it and this inspired me to make foundation for my mountaineering career. Later I climbed ‘Island Peak’ and also worked as cook with Japanese team for the ‘Kusum Kangkaru Peak’.

Journey to Kathmandu for Job
By December 1989, most of villager use to go Kathmandu to search trekking job I am also went to Kathmandu from ‘Jiri’, since not having enough money I need to catch the bus instead of plane at ‘Lukla’. Only I have is Rs. 2100 and we all collected Rs. 500 each and we got Kathmandu and for me my sister already staying in Kathmandu after marriage made me a good shelter.

Started Trekking
After reaching Kathmandu, the time kept on tickling. A day came and I got a trek to ‘Panchashi’ at ‘Pokhara’ for four days. We went two days before the trek to make arrangement at ‘Pokhara’ and after when our guests arrived we went to airport and picked them up and headed as schedule. For the trekking the leader gave us load of 35kg each and including our stuff its already 40-45kg. It was too hard trek but for the first trek after getting in Kathmandu, it was very pleasure and immense moment of my life. Again after I got another trek for ‘Shaklung’ for four days but I was since after second day and I was returned back to Kathmandu and its really so horrible and crossing from such a dark and thick forest alone. Its anyway the circle of time circling.

Good Days Started
Next step of my life, working with STC trekking company belong Doug Scott. For the first two season I worked as a helper. We went to Dolpo area as Reakhi, then after the trek season they choosed me as second guide and Doug Scoot was with us. That was successful trek and this lead me to become guide though was small group for first time.

My First Everest Expedition
In 1993, I got an opportunity to climb Everest. This expedition taught me many lessons of Expedition. After getting at Base Camp after 7/8 days and carrying equipment by 2/3 times. When I tried carrying equipments from camp 2 to Camp 4 South Col., I felt little difficulty, kind of vomiting and dizziness since was the first time at 8000m. Anyway my friend took care of me and I returned back to Base Camp. After getting better again I started carrying equipment for ¾ times. We stayed at Base Camp and sometime Camp 2.

At last, our first team attempt include me and other one sherpa without oxygen. We started from BC to summit but the weather again leave our luck at South Col so we have to return at last camp, where second team also there and suggested us to return back so we got back to C-2. Second team also not able to head from South Col so we all came back to BC for rest. Finally we made one group and also selected one woman member including me, three sherpas. We been through camp 1.2.3 and to South Col, from South Col I carried three bottles of large oxygen and other stuffs. Those oxygen, one for member and one for us to use in mid night. Its my bad luck that I am getting weak and sick since I was carrying too much. When I am at 8200m, my chest is severely painful and its strong cough so at night I cam back my self alone to camp. My friend and member continued to climb up and they summit successfully. I was waiting for them with hot soup and tea in SC. In evening about 4/5 o'clock they came back to camp. Two of Sherpas took soup and tea and then went down to camp 2. Our member tired so we stay in SC. When we started from SC, its windy. Anyhow reached camp 3 and my foot got cold. Then we stopped little time in C-3 for hot soup and I warmed my foot. She gave me dry shocks and after we started down Camp 2. Other members were waiting there at Camp 2. After lunch we got back to BC and our expedition finished.

Though I was not happy internally since I was not at the summit. I continued other expedition and learned more technical side of mountaineering. By 1998 I climbed 30-35peaks.

My Later Climbing Career
Then I realized my climbing life and in Spring 1999 I climbed ‘Kanchanjunga’ with Mr. Park Young Seok
South Korean group that was successful one. Its all learning process for my life, since we are in life learning process. Same year in September, I climbed ‘Shisapangma’ and that too was successful. Soon after few days we went by helicopter to ‘Makalu’ BC. Where our team already there setting the route and camp.

In the evening we call back all Sherpas to BC from Camp-I. We took two days rest at BC. Next day we went to C-I. From camp 1 we went to make route but about 7300m one of cousin died accidentally. We brought the body C-I and returned back to BC. The death body of my cousin is brought down ‘Yangla’ village. We did ritual ceremony in there and returned to BC. Next day we went to check C-I but every thing blown up by avalance.

Therefore, we closed expedition and return back Tumlingtar flew back Kathmandu.

Climbing of Great Mountains Begin
2000 Spring I went with Indian Tibet Border Police team to Kanchanjunga expedition as a Sirdar. To make this successful I supported my team up 8200m. Then after summit we returned back. Next summer with four Nepali Sherpas and S.Korean team we went to climb for K-2. This year we made it spite its hardest part, with six Koreans and one Nepali to the top of 2nd world highest Mountain in same year Autumn, again with Korean expedition, climbed ‘Sishapangma’ South West Face. This is also one of successful expedition. This is the mountain only place for one tent in Camp-I where C-2/3 we have to make Ice cap and bibag. This taught me new experience in every Mountains.

In Spring 2001, with South Korean team I went for Lhotse main. This time we went through khumbu icefall C-1,C-2,C-3. We attempted from camp 3 and we reached very late afternoon on the Top of Lhotse it was very lucky and back safely mid night to camp 3. One of member bibag on the way to down and came back camp morning. He had little frostbite. After we reached camp about 2 O'clock we heard famous climber Babu Chiri is died in Camp-2, by walky- talkey. Because, all of communication in BC is closed mid night, our communication were open during our Summit and hole night BC, C-2 and up that day. That way the team of Babu Chiri want is to give news to BC by our Walky-Talky in BC. We passed the news to BC. It was very sad. Next day we came C-2 and packed our equipments. Then we requested to bring his dead body down BC with others people from C-2. So we finished this expedition and returned back to Kathmandu.

After some days later same climber Mr. Park Young Seok who attempt Lhotse with me again went to K2 to finish his last 14th peak. That time we reached the K2 top but on the way, one of our members is slipped on snow and we not found his dead body. We returned sadly to Islamabad. That was my serious expedition. After finishing, the media gave the news about us, indeed was happy. We all Nepali return back to Nepal.

Again, 2001 returning from K2, 20/25 days later I went to Cho-Oyu with European team. This is also a successful one. After summit, three members and I return to Kathmandu before others.

2002, spring I went with S.Korean team to climb Annapurna I. This Mountain is said to be very dangerous about Avalanche, I found true. We were hit by, but luckily only normal accident happened in our group but it did not affect our main climbing team. After successful summit, we return to BC and Pokhara by helicopter then we came Kathmandu by road. After this, I was so inspired to climb all 14 Peaks so I continued my climbing. 2002 Autumn Everest-Lhotse Expedition with S.Korean team, because of bad weather, we couldn’t scale Everest but we summit successfully the Lhotse main peak and back to BC. Then back to Kathmandu and decided to climb Everest next time.

2003 Spring I went climb with Everest Golden Jubilee Expedition with French team. That time I didn't summit, because of the weather and also stuck with the problems with team members. Again, 2003 autumn, I went to climb Cho-Oyu with Spanish team. This time we back from Camp- II, because of windy weather. After waiting couple of week also weather did not improved so we returned back to Kathmandu.

2004 Spring I went to climb Everest from North side Tibet. This time twice time, we back down from the way to summit. Because weather was very bad. So, we took rest in ABC/BC. With many successful and unsuccessful moment taught me many experiences in Tibet side Everest. Finally, we got summit with four Italy, 1 Tibetan and two Sherpas.

My Dream Lead To 14 Peaks
This Everest success inspired me to do more and best further. From this success made me to try to climb 14 Peaks. So I made a plan to climb. But for me it’s very difficult dream, because though my family background is not strong enough it was very difficult to get climbing team. If I get an opportunity, and sponsor to climb all 14 Peaks I’d do it following the same year 2004 autumn season I went to climb again Cho-Oyu with Spanish team. This time we got successful summit.

Continued to climb in 2005 Spring with Korean Team to ‘Dhaulagiri-I’. This year, the first attempt was an unsuccessful one because of the weather but the second attempt lead us to the summit on Dhaulagiri-I. We are one Korean and three Sherpas reached on the Top. It was very long time to reach summit but was worthy. This gave me more inspiration to continue my dream to success all 14 peaks. This year made me 8 peaks already and 12th times of summit 8000m peaks and in 2005 Autumn again climbed Mt. Himlung,

In 2006 on 11th May at 12:30pm We started our attempt summit from North Camp 3 and We reached to Summit at 11 o'clock am. We stayed there for One and half hours to pray for PEACE IN THE WORLD and then we started for trans to South-Side. As there wasn't an opened route from the South Col we managed to open the route by ourself from there and summit to South Col. As climate wasn't so good it tooks some time from way to down.

Also it was a night when we came down to below Balcony. We had only one head light eventhough we managed to reached South Col at night. As we don't have any tent we continued to go down and reached to Camp-3 at 2o'clock midnight. And then we slept with another team's tent. Finally on next morning we started at 9o' clock in the morning and reached to Camp-2 at 11 o' clock. We have a severe snow blind problems and was tired during that day therefore we decided to stay there on that day. Finally we came back to Base Camp and stayed at Gorakshep and then we begin on next day from Gorakshep to Lobuche by walk. On same day we took a helicopter from Lobuche to Kathmandu.

As we came back by facing with an many difficulties,dangers it makees me remind of those moments when i reached at Base Camp and feel happy myself as me and myr friend returned safely.

We are proud to say that we came from South Col where the route wasn't opened and make a open route by ourselves from the South Col and We are glad to say that this is a totally an new record made by me
( Serap Jangbu Sherpa) and my friend Mr. Park Young Seok from South Korea.

We met our many friends ( nepali & foreigneer) who welcome us at Base Camp. We are happy when our friends welcomes us and would like to thank for those wonderful moments to all my Sherpa and Foreigneer Friends.